Fontcouverte, La Toussuire

Fontcouverte, La Toussuire an authentic Savoyard village in the heart of the Maurienne

Nestled at an altitude of 1,160 metres in the heart of the Maurienne Valley, Fontcouverte is the historic village of the commune of Fontcouverte-La-Toussuire. A world away from the hustle and bustle of the resort of La Toussuire, situated a few kilometres further up, Fontcouverte has retained the character of an authentic Savoyard village: houses half-buried in the ground, slate roofs, peaceful narrow streets and vast expanses of mountain pastures where herds still graze in summer. Here, time seems to follow a different rhythm: we stroll rather than rush about, taking in the facades weathered by the seasons and the views over the surrounding peaks.

Fontcouverte is the administrative centre of a commune comprising no fewer than 16 hamlets, scattered along the road that winds its way from the hamlet of Plan des Rois to the resort of La Toussuire. It is here, amongst mountain pastures and peaks, that the cultural and heritage heart of the region beats — a village on a human scale, where every alleyway tells a little of Savoy’s history.

A history shaped by the mountains

The village owes its growth and identity to its prime location on the hillside. For a long time, it was a simple farming and pastoral village living in tune with the herds and the seasons, Fontcouverte saw its character change with the establishment, in 1923, of the resort of La Toussuire, which began as a place of pilgrimage before developing into a winter sports resort (the first ski lift was installed in 1937).

The development of winter tourism really took off from the 1960s onwards, so much so that in 1987, the municipality, hitherto known simply as Fontcouverte, officially adopted the name Fontcouverte-La-Toussuire, uniting in a single name the historic village and the resort for which it is renowned.

On the Baroque Trail an open-air heritage site

The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption a showcase of plasterwork

In the heart of the village stands the Baroque-style parish church of Fontcouverte. Formerly dedicated to Saint Michael the Archangel, it retains its bell tower, chancel and sacristy from that earlier period. It was during the terrible plague of 1630 that the villagers vowed to enlarge it, a project that would not come to fruition until decades later: the church was not finally completed and consecrated until 1680, under its new patronage of Our Lady of the Assumption.

We step inside almost out of curiosity, and emerge captivated by the finesse of its plasterwork – that delicate craft combining gypsum and adhesive to imitate carved stone. The single nave, facing east, is adorned with a vault decorated with medallions and stucco work, whilst the façade, with its tuff portal inspired by Roman arches, certainly does not go unnoticed. Inside, the eye is drawn to the 18th-century altarpiece, sculpted by Étienne Jomard: its semi-circular shape and Corinthian columns frame two paintings, one depicting the Assumption, the other Saint Michael slaying a dragon with a decidedly ‘Luciferian’ appearance. The only sign of the passage of time: the church’s spire did not survive the French Revolution.

The Chapel of Our Lady of La Salette a Baroque revival

Nearby, the Chapel of Notre-Dame de la Salette is an unmissable stop on the Baroque Trail. Carefully restored in the 1990s, it has been listed as a historic monument since 2 October 1992 — a status it richly deserves given its rich history.

It all began in 1621, when the brotherhood of the same name obtained permission from Bishop Bobba to build it, with each member contributing according to their means. Threatened with ruin as early as 1741, it was rebuilt that same year, and its ceiling panelling, completed in 1746, is adorned with twenty paintings by Joseph De Dominique, who came specially from Rosse in Valsésia.

The French Revolution temporarily diverted it from its original purpose, reducing it to a mere storeroom, before it regained its full splendour in 1860 thanks to the parish priest Pasquier, who dedicated it to Our Lady of La Salette and had its walls decorated by the painter Maggia, from Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne.

A true renaissance, the traces of which can still be seen today in every detail.

A break in the countryside, full of tranquillity

Fontcouverte is just as suitable for days with no set plans as it is for family getaways. Settle down at one of the village’s picnic areas, with the Aiguilles d’Arves silhouetted against the horizon, whilst the little ones have fun at the small playground nearby.

Don’t miss the covered fountain either – a true symbol of the village that gave it its name. Simple and unassuming, it has nevertheless long been a fixture in the daily lives of the locals, who used to come here to fetch water. Its history, which some trace back as far as the Megalithic period, continues to be revealed through archives and remains unearthed during 19th-century excavations — a chapter of history that is still partly to be written.

Did you know?

To fetch water, all the residents had to go to the covered fountain. In the 1800s, some homeowners used the services of a water carrier who transported the water by mule.

The Fontcouverte Festival the village is buzzing with excitement

Every year, at the end of July, the village comes alive and takes on a festive air for the Fête de Fontcouverte.

Over the course of two days, concerts, traditional dances, period costumes, a craft market and Savoyard meals, as well as a demonstration of bread-baking in the village bread oven, transform the streets into a joyful, popular gathering.

It’s the perfect opportunity to experience, if only for a moment, the spirit and warmth of the village.

A gourmet break with a taste of Savoie

Make the most of your visit to Fontcouverte with a gourmet stop. At the Chez Colette cheese shop, you’ll find Savoie’s must-try cheeses: tomme, Beaufort, reblochon and raclette, to enjoy on the spot or take away to make the journey last a little longer.

It’s the perfect way to take a real taste of Savoie home with you.

Fontcouverte, a life-size playground

Fontcouverte is also a brilliant playground for mountain lovers, with trails to suit all abilities

Two walks, two different atmospheres

The ‘La Forestière’ walk takes you on a 7.7 km route with 525 m of elevation gain, taking you on a 7.7 km route with 525 m of elevation gain, largely through the forest. The route offers the chance to observe, as you walk, how the vegetation differs depending on the slope: the first section is on the adret side, the sunny slope, where drier soil gives way to sparse vegetation dominated by deciduous trees. Then, from the Pont de la Scie to the Pont de Merderel, the path crosses over to the north-facing slope, where the soil is more damp and the forest becomes denser, with the presence of conifers — firs and spruces. An accessible route, ideal for taking the time to observe the surrounding natural landscape.

Another option, shorter but just as refreshing: the Rochette–Les3 Croix walk, to explore the Trois Croix whilst passing through villages, forests and mountain pastures, surrounded by the high peaks of the Arvan. An unspoilt natural setting offering a real change of scenery. Starting from the church car park. Allow around 2 hours to cover the 6 km and 380 m of elevation gain – a lovely way to gain some height and enjoy a beautiful viewpoint without straying too far from the village.

Trail running routes, for the most adventurous

For those seeking a more challenging experience, the Trail 24 and 25 routes wind their way through the neighbouring hamlets:

Trail 24: 13.5 km, 780 m elevation gain, for a challenging day’s outing: to explore 11 charming hamlets in Fontcouverte-La Toussuire, including a section near Les Bottières. After an initial climb up to La Rochette as a warm-up, you’ll tackle a series of narrow paths that never become technical: a generally downhill route, punctuated by short climbs, which allows you to constantly pick up the pace. The route, which is very shaded, is a pleasure to run before tackling the final challenge of the course: a 400-metre climb over the last 3 kilometres. A great way to discover the area’s delights whilst staying out of the sun
Trail 25: 34.2 km, 2,150 m elevation gain, a real challenge reserved for seasoned runners: combining a run along the ridges of the Ouillon to Le Grand Truc with a loop through the hamlets of the valley. This gives you a comprehensive overview of Fontcouverte – La Toussuire! A demanding route that takes in all of La Toussuire’s trail running routes!